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In this tutorial, I explain how to create a fully functional, boned and tabbed Elizabethan-style conical corset.  The pattern shown is not 100% historically accurate, but the shape is based on one existent historic corset, and is consistent with modern re-enactment.  The corset shown is constructed with two core layers of 100% cotton duck fabric, with a cover and lining of 100% cotton denim twill.  Any sturdy canvas may be used, including linen and linen blends, or modern corset coutil can be used.  Cover material can be anything that is non-stretch, although I strongly recommend natural fibers for durability and breathability, especially if the corset is to be used for underwear rather than outerwear.

There are some places in the corset where the fabric is 16 and even 18 layers thick.  Keep this in mind when choosing your cover fabric.  The duck/twill combination I use is extremely thick in a couple places, and some home machines will not be able to sew through all the layers.

The Elizabethan Costuming Page includes a custom corset pattern generator, which you can use to create a pattern to the desired measurements.  I have not used it myself, but it seems to work well.  In the future, I intend to write a guide to drafting an Elizabethan corset and post it here.

Part 1 instructs on the assembly of the corset.  Part 2 instructs on boning and finishing the corset. This is Part 1, read on....

Tabs

Patterns generated by the above tool do not include tabs.  To create the tabs, decide how long you want each of your tabs to be and how wide, and then measure along the bottom of the corset from the back edge to the strong downward curve and cut as many tabs as you need to fill that space.  The width of each tab is usually related to the type and width of boning being used, so the boning will optimally fit.  My tabs, after construction, are just a bit wider than 1.5", which gives me room for side seams, two 1/4" wide spring steel flat bones, and space in between that is just larger than a 1/2" bone.  Length of tabs is arbitrary.  I use 2" long tabs.

To create your tab template, draw a box the size of the final tabs.  Alter the shape of the bottom of the tab if desired.  Add seam allowance to the top and sides.  This will be your core template.

Take your core tab template and add seam allowance to the bottom.  This will be your cover material and lining template.

Cut Out The Pieces

The illustrated corset is made from two core layers of cotton duck, and two layers of cotton twill.  On the left of the picture is the front panel piece, cut on the fold.  On the right of the picture is the back panel piece, also cut on the fold.  The strip of fabric on the very right is cut from the cotton twill, and will be used to bind the top of the corset.  On the bottom left are the cut core pieces of the tabs (two per tab), and on the bottom right are the cut cover pieces of the tabs (also two per tab).

Two of the tabs should be cut on the fold, without seam allowance on the folded side.  These two tabs will be used at the center back.

 

Prepare the Tabs

Prepare the tab halves by placing one lining and one cover layer together, wrong sides.  Use an iron to fold the sides of the tab half over by your seam allowance, in this case 1/2".  If desired, the seam allowance may be stitched, folded over, to ensure that it stays.

 

Sew the Body

Place the core layer on the wrong side of the cover layer for each piece.  If desired, they may be based together.  Whether or not they are basted, they should be treated as a single piece.  Sew the side seams together so the body forms one continual loop, front panel 1 to back panel 1 to front panel 2 to back panel 2, and finishing with back panel 2 to front panel 1.

*Variation Note* - If you would like to make the corset with front lacing, sew the body of the corset in two halves, rather than one whole.  That is, sew front panel 1 to back panel 1 on both seams.  Then sew front panel 2 to back panel 2 on both seams.

 

Attaching the Tabs

Find the center point for each back panel and mark it.  I used pencil.

Find the center point of the tabs that were cut on the fold and mark.

Line up the marks, right sides together.  Be sure that the extra bottom allowance for the cover layer is away from the corset edge.

 

Pin the remainder of the tab halves in place, snugging them as close as possible to the adjacent tabs.  Double-check that the outer tabs are placed the same relative to the side seams.  Adjust placement as necessary to ensure the tabs are set evenly.

If the outermost tabs are placed partially over the front curve of the corset, extra steps must be taken to ensure they will lay evenly when the corset is assembled, and not stick out or pucker.  If desired, these problematic tabs can be left out.

When the corset is turned right-side out, the tabs need to lay flat with the body of the corset.  Lay the outermost tab right-side up, placed so that on the side adjacent to the other tabs the seam allowance of the tab is above the seam line for the tabs.  Mark the seam line on the tab at both sides.

Flip the tab over and match the marks to the seam line for the body of the corset.  Pin in place.

Sew the tabs to the body of the corset and trim any excess, especially from the outermost tabs.

Turn the tabs down, press, and top-stitch.  Be careful not to catch the top corners of the tabs in the stitches, which creates folds and extra bulk.

Take the extra seam allowance on the cover layer of the tabs, and fold it over.  Stitch it in place.

 

Finish Assembling the Body

Right sides together, stitch the bottoms of the front panels together.  Do not stitch over the tabs.  Knotch and clip the seam before turning.

Turn the corset, making sure all tabs are facing out.  Press the bottom front seam.  Top stitch the sides of the tabs shown in the photo, and along the bottom front seam.

Stitch the edges of the tab halves to each other.  DO NOT stitch along the bottoms of the tabs.  The tab bottoms need to be left open for boning insertion.  All seams relative to the tabs face upwards, so the clean path for boning is upward.  If you later try to insert the boning from the top, you will have a very difficult time getting the boning down into the tabs.

 

The body is now assembled and ready to be boned.  Boning will be covered in Part 2 of this tutorial.

 

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